![]() ![]() Planning wasn't in the cards when this place was built. ![]() ![]() Can this be fixed? In this case it will not, but the overall improvement on the job will more than outweigh one minor problem. As the stairs turn on a 90 degree angle leading to an upstairs loft, the last step to the actual finished floor height will only be 6 3/4 inches. One obstacle remained to complete this stairway redo. After adjustments were made, the rise on each step measured at 8 inches, slightly more than preferred.īy boxing in the landing tread, the unsightly exposed stair case was hidden. Stair builders will vary on techniques (shims) but this method proved feasible without incurring any major demolition. In order to get the rise more consistent a combination of 1/4" & 3/8" ply was added to the the substrate before 1 inch thick pine treads were added. The first two steps were stripped of the rough treads and risers. To solve this problem the flooring was removed from the landing, with 1/2" plywood torn out as well exposing the landing joist system. I found it difficult to get started up the steps without tripping. ![]() It's basically a roughed in staircase but the carpenters did place some flooring on the landing, excluding the stair nosing. These steps had been this way since day one. My chink logged home located in the Appalachian mountains is quite rustic, but I didn't think the steps would be this rustic! This surely would not pass code in many areas, but the home was built in 1990.Īnyway the photo on the right reveals the situation. I thought I'd share a project I've been contemplating for over a year, but the question was always how to go about it. If the handrail system is separate of the existing tread and riser system, and you're happy with the existing, only treads and risers would be considered.įor those that desire an appearance of handrail, balusters, treads and risers all being connected, an experienced stair builder is my suggestion. This would depend on how the entire system was installed and what you want to achieve from the project. Lengths are generally sold in 48 or 60 inch lengths for common specifications.įor those that may have a standard plywood substrate, or 2 x 12's used under carpeting with a hand rail system, complete removal of all would be the preferred method. The starting step will have rounded effects on both ends or one end, depending on how your staircase is configured. These systems are quite common in many homes with the first three or four steps being open on one side or the other (shown right) Treads with left and right hand mitered returns for those that may have open staircases or a portion of the area is open without stair skirting. Standard treads can also be purchased for this application and rounded over with the use of a router and a standard round over bit. This type of tread is more economical while taking less time to install. Standard finished ends are treads revealing the end of the hardwood rounded over in the same manner as the front part of the tread. Overall thickness may vary slightly but the majority are 1 1/16 of one inch. Sizes: Treads will start at 36 inches and are sold in progressively longer lengths usually 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 72, 84, 96, and 120 inches. Standard treads are measured, then cut on site to fit. Some situations may not have stringers, but only drywall to work with. Pictured on the right best describes the product showing a staircase with stair stringers/skirting capturing the entire scope of the system. Standard is also term milled ends, or installed into a straight box or closed staircase (no edges are seen). Depending on how your staircase is configured, you may only need standard treads if your staircase is closed or boxed in. ![]()
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